The modeling industry used to be all about the haves and the have nots. It was a business where gatekeepers held all the power and aspiring models were at the mercy of agents. Often these scouts would identify potential models walking the streets, but whether aspiring fashion plates were auditioning or found at random, luck was a determinant factor in who became an icon and who never had a chance. The rise of social media is turning that dynamic on its head.

Models have long been seen as passive rather than active, as showcases for the vision of a designer rather than people in their own right, but social media offers those who want to work in modeling the chance to be proactive and to make identities for themselves that are parts of their branding rather than simple accessories. Case in point is Alyssa Traoré. The Dutch model tried to follow the traditional path to success but had difficulty seeking out an agency. Frustrated, she took to Instagram to promote herself for agents directly. It worked, and today Traoré has worked for some of the biggest designers and brands in the business.

Agencies are taking notice of this new channel for scouting talent as well. IMG Models is a titan in the industry, and that’s allowed their #WLYG hashtag to find footing. Short for “We Love Your Genes”, the hashtag offers a popular shorthand that aspiring models can use to promote their looks. The result is a win-win, creating a direct pipeline between model and agency without geographic restrictions or scheduling demands serving as a barricade. That allows models who live in remote locations or those without the money to abandon their day jobs for interviews to stand on equal footing with more privileged women. For agencies, it means a significantly larger pool of prospective talent to draw from.

But that doesn’t mean that Instagram is a panacea for the issues the industry faces. Some models worry that it’s forcing them to be “on” at all times. After all, they’re serving essentially as their own marketing team and their own photographer, and that means that models often have to hustle more not just to break into the industry but to stay relevant.

Social media is leveling the playing field, and that’s a good thing. But it doesn’t eliminate the wealth gap completely. Those with the time, the resources, and the connections are still those most likely to climb their way to prominence.